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Hemingway in the
offshore islands of Romano
Por Lázaro David Najarro
Pujol
The
historical and literary essay "Ernest Hemingway and the Romano
Archipelago", awarded by Casa de las Americas with a mention in 1999,
now is part of the wide oeuvre of Nuevitas-born writer Enrique Cirules.
One hundred and twenty pages of interesting reading recently published
by Ácana publishing house in Camagüey.
In this book, Cirules
tackles a group of unknown aspects that had not been studied till today,
and bear a very close relation with the life and work of Ernest
Hemingway in Cuba for more than three decades.
For a long time, the
author of "A Caribbean Mob Story: The Mafia in Havana" has studied the
iceberg of Hemingway's presence in the largest island of the Caribbean;
his adventures and experiences in the far and paradisiacal archipelago
of Romano, located in the northern coast of Camagüey, setting of his
last novel, published in 1970 by Scribnr's in New York.
Cirules shows how
Hemingway became interested in the fabulous Havana of 1929, when he
stopped over in the Cuban capital for almost two months in his second
visit to the island. By those days, Hemingway met one of the most
splendid and unpredictable women of that time, with whom he held an
intense and shocking love affair.
That adventure helped
Hemingway to shape some female characters for "The Short Happy Life of
Francis Macomber", and for the novel "To Have or Have not", published in
1937.
Cirules' book also
reveals that the myth Hemingway in Cuba did not start when the author of
"A Farewell To Arms" began to frequent streets, plazas, bars, taverns
and restaurants, hotels and piers of the Cuban capital; but when he
began to explore the mythical islands of Romano in 1930.
He made his first
explorations in the boat Anita accompanied by his buddy smuggler Joe
Rusell, owner of Slopy Joe in Key West. Afterwards, he sailed in a
two-spar schooner owned by a rich family in Havana, and later on in 1934
he began to navigate in the yacht Pilar.
These continuous
sailings -unknown sailings until today- toward the small islands of
Romano in the 1930's, let Hemingway to get familiar with the vast
coastal area that was virgin at that time.
Those were places that
Hemingway began to visit repeatedly. They were charming sites with
thousands of flamingos and big sandy dunes in the slopes, full of
coconut trees and seagrapes.
The young man from Oak
Park, Illinois used to sail away from the coves and the seagrapes of
Romano to enter the spacious bay of Nuevitas and dropped anchor in El
Guincho jetty and booked in one of the accommodations by the sea.
Those were buildings
made of hardwood with balconies and terraces and waxed floor and their
rooms facing the sea, to leeward of the famous Agustín el Tuerto's
tavern.
In that place, the
adventurers drank and ate all kind of seafood delicatessens, before
taking the early train towards Camagüey, a city marked by old Roman
Catholic churches, convents and plazas, where the streets are crooked
and of paving stone.
It was common then that
Hemingway and his friends walked all over the city, once known as Santa
Maria del Puerto del Principe, and gazed at its colonial houses
characterized by dissimilar indoor colonnades, eaves of French tiles and
huge 'tinajones'[1]
in the shade of the cozy flowery patios.
Afterwards they
returned to Nuevitas, to El Guincho jetty, to the hoary wooden piers, to
the streets made of stone that began on the slope. They returned to walk
along the coast of colonial warehouses, built with rocks brought from
the coral reef. The famous American writer could go sightseeing the
green landscape of that hill, and knew the two tower yellow church built
by a Catalan mason.
It was there that
Hemingway got in touch with one of the most fascinating places of the
Caribbean.
When the World War II
begins, the author of "For Whom the Bell Tolls" and a group of friends
started one of the most incredible adventures that any writer had done
in the 20th century, that is to chase German submarines on a pleasure
boat off the cliff of Romano keys for almost two years 1942-1943.
In his research,
Enrique Cirules, author of "El iceberg de Ernest Hemingway en la cayería
de Romano"[2],
winner of a mention in Casa de las Americas contest 1999, has
reconstructed the aspects that inspired Hemingway to write "Islands in
the Stream", which is a fascinating pursuit of a group of Nazi
submarines though keys, islands, streams and shallow waters of the
central region of Cuba.
In these stories,
Cirules tells us about the warfare actions in the Bahamas stream, the
Cuban writer reveals the existence of a third German submarine that got
sunk in the waters of this hemisphere during the World War II, this
event, though ignored by specialists, still remains in the historical
memory of the dwellers here.
The combat against this
submarine, three miles north off the Maternillos lighthouse inspired
Hemingway to write the last part of his wonderful novel. All these new
elements confirm that Cirules' book is one of the most revealing texts
published over the latest years about the work and life of the most
universal US novelist of the 20th century.
Aside from these
aspects, that were never treated nor studied before, "El iceberg de
Ernest Hemingway... " reveals the myths and legends that surrounded the
village of Versalles, a coastal city founded at the end of the 19th
century by French immigrants, in the easternmost area of Romano key, a
place that Hemingway knew very well. In the book Cirules mentions the
fishermen of the region that wanted to sell the novelist an old pirate
map and tried to persuade him to go for lost treasures.
Essential aspects of
these stories were retaken by Ernest Hemingway to write "Islands in the
Stream", the most autobiographical book of his lifetime career as a
novelist.
Enrique Cirules was
born and grew up in those places, and before becoming a famous writer he
met the mythical characters that once held continuous relationships with
Hemingway in the 1930´s and after.
Hemingway seen by
fishermen and bartenders
It is for that reason
that Cirules' book portraits the vision that the fishermen, the turtle
hunters, the immigrants, the rogues, the sailors and above all the
bartenders of the El Guincho, Nuevitas had about Hemingway, with whom
they were in touch for many years.
Agustín el Tuerto's
famous tavern, frequently visited by Hemingway, is described in Cirules'
book. The essayist depicts the strange and fascinating accommodation
that stretched its balconies towards the sea, a place run by a woman
nicknamed La Colombiana, the splendorous Gato Negro, the most exquisite
restaurant by the surroundings and the lights of the Hotel Filgueras, a
spot where captains and sailors, gamblers and adventurers did their
parties.
The mystery and
magnetism of two settlements founded by Americans and Germans at the
beginning of the 20th century in the northernmost part of the Camagüeyan
savannah are also described in "Ernest Hemingway and the Romano
Archipelago". By those days Hemingway carried out his submarine hunting
in an archipelago featuring the largest game and fishing preserve in the
Caribbean, swarming with wild dogs and horses, deer, flamingos, herons
and above all ferocious sharks.
These new elements,
present in the life and work of the great US writer, revealed in "The
iceberg of Ernest Hemingway in the offshore islands of Romano" are the
widest contribution to the narrative universe that Hemingway treated in
the most splendid of his novels: Island in the Stream, a novel he wrote
in 1947, but did not give to his editors.
A book about the World War
II which was published, revised corrected and maybe bowdlerized ten
years after his death.
Notas de referencias
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Tinajón: A huge, coarse and belly container made of earthenware,
resembling a jar that is commonly used for water storage in a
city where the liquid is not abundant. The city of Camagüey is
known as the city of the tinajones.
-
"El iceberg
de Ernest Hemingway en la cayería de Romano": Cirules, Enrique.
"Ernest Hemingway and the Romano Archipelago". Ediciones UNION,
1999 (Translated from the original Spanish).
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